By Josip Bogovic
The story of the Lađa begins as a 2000-year-old wooden boat primarily used along the Neretva River for light cargo transport and currently finds itself as a Maraton Lađa being rowed around Manhattan Island (NYC, 34 miles/55 km); the contrast could not be further amplified when an observer peers into this story the words resurrection, alternative vision, determination, will, passion, beauty, conquest. community, fairytales come to mind.
Resurrection: Due to the modernization of lifestyle and transport, the Netvanske Lađe found themselves buried in mud under the Neretva River, mummified and forgotten. In every story, there is a special person or persons who see resurrection as a challenge and a triumph over obscurity and death. Milojko Glasović is at the center of the resurrection and the Maraton Lađa events and activities. Now in his early seventies, he is known as the father of the Maraton Lađa races and events. The Maraton race is a 22-kilometer event for men and 11km for women, which starts in Metković, goes through Opozen, and ends in Ploče:
“The Lađa Maraton began in 1998 and still continues to this day. We had a goal to row around Manhattan Island, row to the United Nations, and pass by the Statue of Liberty on our Dan Državnosti. Our goal was accomplished, Lađa will be left in New York so that Croatians in New York and New Yorkers, in general, can come and compete in our Maraton in Croatia. One of our goals was to share our culture and story with New Yorkers, for Croatians have been coming to these shores for well over a hundred years,” said the wise trailblazer.
If one stops to think, the vision is extraordinary, from the mud of the Neretva River to New Yorkers possibly competing in the Maraton Lađa; now that is an alternative vision. I’m sure that those who let the Lađa sink were not thinking of Milojko’s vision of today; wow!
Women’s power and enthusiasm are well represented and exhibited in Maraton Lađa, as over 18 groups (comprising 200 members) compete in the Marathon. In the NCY event, 5 women rowed the treacherous waters of the Hudson River as well as the East River. Four of the ladies are in their mid-to-early twenties. Tea Vučković, Lara Mataga. Gabriela Glavnić and Paula Bajo have been part of the Maraton Lađa for 5 to 8 years. They are members of the Udruga za očuvanje Neretvanske Baštine in Opuzen. Many mothers participate in the Maraton, including Tea, a mother of two.
Sanda Dodig is a mother of two and a member of Udruga Gusarice Metković. “It’s easy to make friends with those who participate in these events; we have much in common. I’m a person who enjoys various physical activities. I’m not a person who likes isolation and inactivity; life is about having different experiences. When I’m not rowing, I bike or box. Once I set foot on the Lađa, I fell in love with the entire concept of what we do; it’s part of our tradition. This is a human community, and everyone is welcome if they choose to be. Lađa connects people; we are all one. It’s a way of life for us,” said the eloquent, clear-thinking Maratoner.
There are many small Lađa clubs throughout Croatia, including Slavonski Brod, Bjelovar, Zagreb, Komin, and Lipik, to name a few. Participants come from all walks of life. Ante Sprlje is currently a judge in his profession and also serves as a director on the board of Udruga Lada Neretve. Additionally, Ante was a Marathoner for several years and previously held the position of president of the organization. “Our organization has a new project; we purchased a warship, Istranka, which remained in Croatia since the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire; we are restoring it; it’s a museum on the water,” said the purposeful gentleman.
Mario Jurković keeps an eye on all aspects of the event, including playing the role of the Croatian King. Pavo Jerković served as the first president of Udruga Lađa Neretve and has been associated with the organization since its inception. The Lađa is an eight-person rowing boat, with two people standing at the front and back.
Slavko Musulin helps steer the Lada from the back with the rudder in hand, “I love the feeling when the audience cheers for you, knowing it is difficult during the race“, said the fit gentleman. Dalibor (Dabo) Horvat and Andrej Plancec are part of the Šumari (Bjelovar) crew. “This is more of a Spartan sport partly because of the way we are positioned when we row; we don’t row conventionally due to the design of the boat; we adapted its shape, not the other way round,” said the gentlemen.
Denis Gašljević is also part of the Šumari crew. “My twelve-year-old son does not want to speak with me on the phone because he’s not in New York where he wants to be, so I promised I’ll take him here this year,” said the friendly dad with a smile. Klapa Balatura also came from Croatia to provide the musical coverage. There was a book written on the organization/projects titled “25 Years of the Riverboat Marathon” well written with numerous photographs.
To make it to New York is a logistical puzzle of gigantic proportions. This task was assigned to Thiery Paul, a very dynamic, friendly, and focused individual who is always eager to get the job done. “Everything in New York is regulated. One needs permits for everything. You cannot do an event like this without life vests and boats to accompany the Lađa, so you have to time everything right, and I’m organizing this from France or Croatia, where I live. If I was familiar with New York, it would be less of a problem. Upon its arrival, the boat has to be inspected for living organisms. It also has to be sprayed down with anti-biotic chemicals. We planned this journey years ago, but Covid got in the way, and here we are, delighted to be,” said the detail-oriented gentleman.
Thiery Paul visited the Community Boat House on Pier 40 in NYC and encouraged its members to build a Lada of their own and for them to participate in the Maraton race in Croatia. The person who made this super memorable and much easier for the 40 Croatian participants is New York-based Veseljko Buntić. It was from his bar/restaurant, Anable Basin Sailing Bar/Grill (4-40 44th Drive, LIC, New York), that the base camp for the entire operation was located. Anable Basin is located on the edge of the East Rivier and has its own long dock. The Lađa remains at Veseljko’s Anable Basin for everyone’s use. Mr. Buntic understands the dynamics of the world, and the mission Maraton Lađa was trying to accomplish and was glad to help.
The Marathon Lađa participated in many international events, including crossing the English Channel (36 km) in 2009. In 2010, the Lađa and 50 men crossed the Adriatic Sea from Metković to Termoli, Italy. The weather in New York was not that cooperative; the rowers faced winds, waves, and rain during the adventure around Manhattan.
The men and women of Maraton Lađa are resilient, unafraid, and undeterred in their pursuit of their goals, as proven by their history. For all involved, this was a once-in-a-lifetime event that will stay in the memories of all who participated in one form or another. Most of all, Maraton Lađa was a triumph of the human spirit and community. Though there were a few kinks along the way, the only thing that will be remembered in the hearts and minds of participants is the experience and the conquest of a goal: to circle Manhattan, its people, and its history.
This event was sponsored by many Croatian companies and a few governmental organizations to their credit. The visitors treated Croatian New Yorkers and friends to a trip around Manhattan in a comfortable boat. Milojko Glasović, Thiery Paul, and all other organizers and participants are very thankful to all who helped with the project, especially their host, Veseljko Buntić, and Croatians Online, as well as everyone who shared their journey and cheered them on through social media and word of mouth. Maraton Lađa is a real-life fairytale that leaves one in a state of awe from all that was accomplished throughout the years! Go, Maraton Lađa!
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